A HAPPY BEER

As the year moves toward the summer solstice, thoughts turn towards the summer beers that this year I haven’t even sampled. With the exception of one: Wacko, the deliciously red colored ale from The Magic Hat Brewing Company, a surprisingly full bodied work, even if the alcohol level only clocks in at 4.5% abv.  But the finish of this well made ale reflects Magic Hat’s distinct personality, probably mostly due to the use of their own yeast.
I know I said I just sampled one summer offering, but I forgot, I also tried Widmer Brothers Brewery’s Drifter Pale Ale, a complex yet subtle flavor profile, with a harmonious balance of malt and hops, that is very gentle and yet very flavorful. Odd too that this is of a much higher strength than Wacko (5.7%), but with a much lighter body. Incongruous viscosity, so to speak.
In terms of beer development, this is probably the best of times. Craft brewers (which is a misnomer, since brewing any good beer involves craftsmanship, but more on that in a moment) and large brewers, continue to present new offerings, whether it is a bold flavor experimental recipe, or a revival of  beer brands made in an earlier time; such as the return of fully krausened  Old Style, the revival of original Schlitz, and the revival of a beer long ago associated with the Cincinnati Reds: Burger.
Which reminds me of a remarkable statement I came across by Joe Schiraldi, Vice President of brewing operations at The Left Hand Brewing Company. It seems that Mr. Schiraldi recently attended some “craft” brewing conference, where some keynote speaker went out of his way to trash the so-called macro brewers. Joe took offense at this because Mr. Schiraldi knew, that the craftsmanship and quality control done on a large scale, is just as important as a tiny brew kettle. And even more important where the innovations and knowledge discovered by the titans of beer business, that are now used by everyone, from craft brewer to home brewer. Anyway, Joe Schiraldi said this: “The title of the latest block buster movie BEER WARS elicits this response from me: “No thanks… I would prefer to make happy beer to promote peace, understanding and detente among all people.”
Which is the way I see things myself. Once upon a time I too adhered to the beer snob credo that found it necessary to criticize what someone else enjoyed drinking. Ah but I was so much older then, I’m younger than that now, as Saint Bob would say.
Another good example of this happened on a thread at the Beer Advocate web site. The topic posted was why there was so little respect for Budweiser American Ale? I posted a comment that I thought A-B did a great job at creating a highly drinkable ale, of consistent quality, now available nearly everywhere. I received one angry response that said: “I would never buy that garbage.”
Which made me wonder what was considered to be garbage? The Cascade hops? The two-row barley malts? Or simply the fact that it is brewed without any adjunct grains? Strange too that such language is employed at Beer Advocate, who uses the credo: “respect beer”. Does that only apply to the boutique breweries who obtain cult like status? Or does that apply to the traditional role of beer as the drink of the people?
The term respect beer means for me, having some appreciation for all the work and love that went into you being able to enjoy the beer that you have, whatever the recipe style. To simply know, that the people engaged in producing that brew were involved in a positive activity. As the folks at The Bear Republic Brewing Company say: make beer, not bombs.
Thank you, the only prayer
The Beer Doctor

Imagine The Surprize

Fifteen years ago when the craft brew world was starting to go into orbit, few at the time would have imagined that the orbit is permanent, or L5 as they say. Recently sampling  Great Lakes Grassroots Ale, I was struck by the fact a brewery located in Cleveland, Ohio could produce an herbal farmhouse style of ale, found in Belgian and French farms, and somewhat rare, even in their countries of origin. Mind you, it is not my favorite beer, but the Belgian yeast strain, combined with the herbs, keep this in authentic context. On the bottle’s label, it is referred to as a mild ale, which when you see that it is 6.2% abv, they are using the term mild in the Belgian sense of the word. In British vocabulary this ale would be deemed strong.
But there is certainly something to be said about sitting in the backyard, on one of the warmest days so far this year, amidst abundant foliage and sunlight, and pouring this beautiful golden ale into what could be rightfully called a performance ale glass,  which exhibits this beer in all its saison glory.

Brewers in the United States are very interested in all different styles of beer. Take Andygator from The Abita Brewing Company in Louisiana. A big southern take on the traditional German Mai bock. Packaged into a 22oz bottle (a bomber as the beer crowd calls it) this 8% golden boy, is most definitely a bottle for two. If you open this while alone, well its time to get happy and responisble ( by not performing any tasks that require responsibility). Time to sit back and enjoy the malty golden nectar.
Which brings me to a point I would like to make. As The Beer Doctor, I was schooled in tasting by Beer Hound James D. Robertson, who taught me as a taster, its my job to meet any beer’s recipe halfway. In other words, if I am sampling a beer brewed with corn grits, say Straub or Pabst for example, I am not going to compare it with an all malt recipe. To say that beers made with adjunct grains are inferior is to deny the history of brewing (especially in the United States) that brought them about. Whether it is macrobrews or craft brewed, these marketing terms are incredibly overrated, because in truth, it is the recipe that counts, and how it is put into production. Of course branding has something to say, when it comes to satisfying the ticklish consumer palate. That is why Heineken Lager is sold in green bottles. Why Corona is sold as some fantasy beach vacation, rather than the dull migrant cooler that it actually is. Stella Artois is another marketing coup, taking a rather common table lager from Belgium, and making it “Reassuringly Expensive” as it was touted in England up until a couple of years ago.
The price of beer is often used as a way to determine the quality of the beer. After many years in the trenches, so to speak, I can assure the dear reader that this is not so. But people believe what they want to believe, so I am not at all surprised  when I observe someone forking out serious dough, for a six pack of something I would consider not worth buying at half the prize. Such is essential human freedom, and bless us all for deciding what each of us  wants to drink.
The recipe is the thing that will catch the conscience of The Beer Doctor. Whether it is new world or old world or downright acrchaic (such as brew lagered for months in stone caves). If it tastes good or interesting, it is going to be counted. Cheers!

KEEP ON BOCKING IN THE USA

With Spring comes bock, and with the arrival of Genesee Bock 12 packs in cans, it seems to harken back to a simpler time. Which seems to be effecting regional brewers across the country, who are rediscovering archival bock recipes to revive. A good example of this is Stegmaier Brewhouse Bock, a turn of the 20th century recipe that reminds me of the estery magic possible in an all malt, traditional German style recipe. In fact, although I thoroughly enjoy Anchor Bock, Leinenkugel’s 188 Bock, and Christian Moerlein Emancipator, I think the Stegmaier takes the prize for astounding flavor not magic.
Samuel Adams Double Bock has undergone a change in marketing strategy that I can not say I approve of. It use to be, for many many years, Double Bock appeared for a short six weeks of the year in six pack or case. Now it has been revamped to be produced year round as a four pack in their Imperial Series, kicking up the alcohol strength past 9% abv, I guess to help justify spending $10 on four bottles of beer. Unfortunately, many stores who carry Sam Adams beer, are a bit gun  shy on carrying an expensive four pack. So it has actually become more difficult to find the new version, of which I still have not tried.
ASomething definately worth checking out is Shiner 100th Anniversary Commemorator, a top fermented dunkel weizen dopplebock, a style usually associated with Schneider & Sohn’s Aventinus or Erdinger’s Pikantus. Here the Spoetzl Brewery takes on the recipe Texas style, performed with flavorful audacity. Not to be missed.
There are many other examples of bock this year available, including Dundee Pale Bock and Summit Mai Bock, both fine examples of the golden coloured late spring style. Many others, due to logistical distribution factors, I will not able to sample, including Yuengling Bock, found one state to the east of me. Anyway, here’s to bock! In its myriad recipe forms. To the restorative powers of malts I say cheers! and as always my only prayer is thank you.

NEW BEERS IN THE NEW YEAR

2009 is proving to be an interesting year.  The arrival of Samuel Adams Blackberry Witbier is a very pleasant addition indeed. Too many fruit flavored beers miss the mark, but that is not the case with this recipe. A thirst quenching, delicious beer that, at 5.5% abv, is substantial enough to be enjoyed anytime of the year. A welcome addition to the Sam Adams permanent portfolio.
Another addition to yearly production is Sierra Nevada Torpedo IPA Ale. An orange-copper colored pour that is lively, with a surprisingly subtle, hops rich nose. “Torpedo” refers to the “hop torpedo” method created by Sierra Nevada, to uniquely dry hop this ale, which is only logical, from the brewery known for its obsessive hops personality. An uncompromising American IPA, well designed for those who love this brewing style, where intense hop floral resins combine with malts to create a complex, citrus-layered palate, that finishes as long as the day therein.
The same can be said for their annual barleywine style, Sierra Nevada Bigfoot Ale 2009, where the hug malt presentation does not escape Sierra Nevada’s hops assertion. This was an “extreme beer” long before anyone had coined the term. A welcome selection for post-holiday, dead-of-winter. A seriously deep brew with complex bitterness, for those who can sip and enjoy, a truly heavy beer.
A very good seasonal now available is Pandora’s Bock from Breckenridge Brewery. A lively dark copper pour, with a rich malty palate, offset somewhat by hops, making it rather doughy in the finish. Four different malts are used, along with a traditional Bavarian lager yeast, and Strisselspalt and Chinook hops, combine well to perform their magic. A tasty, beautiful presentation.
Matt Brewing has released their St. Patrick’s Day offering, with their Saranac Irish Red Ale. A festive, pleasurable event in the Irish amber style. Nothing is out of place here. A tasty drinkable beer, from start to finish. Have a case or two of this, for a crowd.
In the state of Ohio, in February, six packs of beers from Mendociono Brewing Company are on sale at $6.99 (+). A very good offering is their White Hawk Original IPA, with its subtle (as opposed to overwhelming) aromatic nose. Like nearly all American versions of India Pale Ale, this is aggressively hopped to say the least.
Hoppy beers have become quite a rage amongst beer seekers lately, and there are plenty of examples to choose from. White Hawk is Mendocino’s year round offering, and at 7% abv, it is a couple of notches in strength below the hops blow-out, extreme, “Imperial” versions. But there is plenty of flavor here. There is more of an apricot note in the citrus palate, fairly mild and finishes long.
Another interesting offering is Mendocino’s Black Eye Ale, a rich dark pour with a reddish undertone. This “black and tan” combines Black Hawk Stout with their Eye Of The Hawk Red Ale, producing a smooth malty, 6.5% abv, presentation. Here hops and malts blissfully co-exist. There are many flavor notes here, but why get ponderous? This top fermented blend is designed for drinkability (in a 22oz bottle at that), which it most certainly is, with a silky smooth finish.
Bock beers keep arriving this time of year. This season Jacob Leinenkugel Brewery decided to revive their brewery’s first 19th century recipe. 1888 Bock is dark amber in color, and a gentle malts showcase, serving as a reminder that bock beer  has been a part of the American beer vocabulary for a very long time. The use of pale and dark malts keeps this tasty and festive.
Last but not least, Anchor Brewing Company’s Anchor Bock, is a very fine example of American bock. A luxurious, deep brown pour, that combines barley and wheat malts to produce an outstanding beer, with many flavorful notes. This is the first time I have sampled this beer, and the fact that this was a fresh sample, made this a very glorious experience.
Cheers!

INTO THE NEW YEAR

New Year’s celebration turned out to be a blast. Not only were there many holiday offerings to choose from, the reappearence of the Genesee Beer 30 can pack, turned out to be quite handy during the endless college bowl football games. Also, I was fortunate to get a hold of the Rochester, New York brewery’s Dundee Festive Ale, a quite good wassail with substantial strength (6.2% abv), made to seem more exotic at this locale, because of its limited availability.
With still plenty of winter to endure, I still have bottles of Avery’s Old Jubilation ale, and a couple of Goose Island’s Christmas Ale to toast things up a bit. I look forward to the season of bock (just around the corner) including this year, a first sampling of Leinenkugel’s 1888 Bock, using the recipe from that year.
This post is short and sweet. Here’s hoping everyone has a peaceful and prosperous New Year. Later… Beer Doctor. Thank You.

HAZY HOLIDAY DEFINITIONS

The Holiday/Winter beer investigations continue. I am going to have to do some travel to expand the portfolio of bottled offerings. Like all true lovers of this ancient beverage, we know, WE JUST SIMPLY KNOW, that there is no such thing as too much beer!
Now some misunderstood souls will see this as an endorsement for drinking excess, Not so! There are beers (Brooklyn’s Black Chocolate Stout for example) so rich and full that one is certainly enough. No, what I mean is, in the long scheme of things, like a beer blogger in Alaska once noted, you can be stocked full with all kinds of beer, but there will always be something you would like to have on hand, to make an occasion or holiday complete. It is the seeking where a lot of the love comes in.
Recently I went to beeradvocate.com to read what others thought of this year’s “Our Special Ale” from the Anchor Brewing Company. It was there I noticed that under category, it was listed as “winter warmer”. Winter Warmer? When did that become a recipe definition?
Mind you, I am old school. I was once at a trade show talking to sales reps from the Boston Beer Company, who happily discovered I knew more about the history of Samuel Adams Winter Lager than they did, simply because I was drinking it before they were legally old enough to imbibe. But the winter warmer definition is disturbing to me, because Winter/Holiday beers have always been my favorite subject. Winter warmer is a vague definition, like the equally stupid “session beer” which can best be described as: Well I see you guys are going to pound a few.
Winter/Holiday beers have many descriptions. Wassail for example, is ale with spices, Anchor’s 34th edition is a prime example. Winter Ale or Old English Ale, is a non-spiced ale that puts great emphasis on malts, and the interplay between malts and hops, that change definition somewhat, through the passage of time, when hops, which were once in the foreground, fade into the malty background. A once prime example of this was King & Barnes in England. Samuel Smith’s Winter Welcome is another. In the United States, Goose Island, Avery, Great Divide, all pay tribute to this, with big malty productions.
A more recent, but much beloved development is the West Coast idea of making India Pale Ale as a holiday offering. The most famous example of this is Sierra Nevada’s Celebration Ale. Mendocino Brewing does this also. So does Rogue Brewing, with their Santa’s Private Reserve Ale.
Another hoppy take is Holiday Amber, where hops are combined with a more malty approach, Magic Hat’s Roxy Rolles, is a fine example.
Bottom fermented beers, or what is known in the U.S. as lager, have their own storied history in the making of holiday beer. Christmas Bock, a tradition that dates back to at least 1543, with the world famous Wurzburger Holiday Bier. Penn Brewing continues this tradition with their St. Nikolaus Bock, along with other brewpubs and homebrewers. I have often been asked, is Sam Adams Winter Lager a wassail? Not exactly. It is a spiced, dunkelweizen bock. Old Fezziwig Ale is Samuel Adams wassail.
The term Festive Ale, is sometimes used, which often refers to strong barleywine style ales. In the United States, Stone Brewing’s Double Bastard Ale, is a prime example.
The Belgians have their own unique contribution to the holiday portfolio. Affligem’s Noel, Scaldis Noel, Stille Nocht, Delerium Noel are some examples. These are ales that sometimes use fruit, spices and honey. All are flavor rich and strong.
Add to all of this, ales that are aged in oak, and it becomes quite obvious that the  term “winter warmer”, simply will not do, when describing the holiday beer universe.
As always, thank you.

EXTENDED HOLIDAYS

There are many different approaches to holiday beer. There is the English style old winter ale, the hoppy IPA style, the wassail style of ale, not to be confused with spiced versions of lager, such as Samuel Adams Winter Lager, a spiced dunkelweizen bock. Add to that the many variations of porter, imperial stouts which utilize cocoa and such, and you have a plethora of products to choose from.
To start off, I would like to cover some annual classics… given that distinction after many years of sampling. Snow Cap Ale from Pyramid Breweries comes to mind, its dark amber color, with its unmistakable malty nose. I could certainly make this one out in a blind taste test. The rich malty character made even more distinctive by the spicy interplay with the hops. Unmistakable.
Three Holiday offerings from breweries in Colorado, reveal how great United States brewing has become. Breckenridge Christmas Ale has always been good, but over the years this recipe has evolved to the point of greatness. A rich semi-dry palate from an invigorating malt presentation, that is complex but without being ponderous. A very festive holiday ale indeed.
Great Divide Brewing’s Hibernation Ale is a rich brown pour with a coppery undertone. A glorious take on strong winter ale, with plenty of malted strength and flavor complexity to make this a go-to choice on a cold winter night.
The same can be said of Avery’s Old Jubilation Ale, another big time malt creation, full of chocolate to mocha to vanilla notes. Another Colorado brew of marvelous depth. These beers seem to beg the question: do you want to slam some swill? or do you to drink an actual beer?
When it comes to holiday spiced ale in the United States, the inimitable champion is Anchor Brewing’s “Our Special Ale”, the 34th edition of their Christmas wassail, with its pine-spruce essence reappearing every year in the aroma. Staying within the palate parameters of this much discussed ale, that changes, or more accurately, adds variations to the recipe, year after year, this version in no way disappoints. A very festive, flavorful, easy to drink Christmas ale. I would forget about storing this for later, this beer has no need need to improve with time. There is plenty of complexity to experience while enjoying this fresh.
By contrast, Harpoon’s Winter Warmer is a straight forward, rather rough recipe, which simply puts emphasis on cinnamon and nutmeg.
Blue Moon’s Full Moon Winter Ale makes Belgian claims by its use of dark candy sugar, but it is not Belgian style ale at all. Instead, there is a full body, malty ale of moderate strength, that is hearty, smooth, and approachable.
One holiday creation, it is said will develop over five years, and that is Goose Island Christmas Ale, the mahogany colored pour from the Chicago beer company. Having sampled “vintage” versions, the ale will reveal its British based lineage, but this only deprives you of the wonderful flavor of a fresh bottle. With its chocolate-citrus flavor notes. This finishes with an orange-chocolate note. Fantastic. Not to be missed.
Probably one of the greatest recipes in production at present is Brooklyn Brewery’s Brooklyn Winter Ale, an almost unbelievable tribute to the Scottish Maris Otter malts. Of all the wonderful beers of this season, I hold this in the highest regard. Cheers!

MAKING THE HOLIDAYS HAPPY

Let’s face it, there is so much momentous stuff taking place. Politics, the economy, it is all one big rockin’ ball of confusion. But this year, I am not going to let any of these matters get in the way of enjoying the great holiday beers, and there are so many to choose from. Well choose is not the right word, because I want to sample as many as possible. The annual favorites return, but I am also seeking new samples everyday (Point Brewery’s St. Benedict’s Winter Ale come to mind, I will have to go out of state to obtain it.) It is time to celebrate.
A remarkable sampler this year is Saranac’s Winter Classics. Not only does the collection contain some remarkable recipes, but also included is my beloved Christmas favorite, Saranac Season’s Best. The nut brown lager that uses Belgian malts, this absolutely delicious (at least for myself) beer has a nutty profile unlike any other. Combine that with the other selections, E.S.B., India Dark Ale, Vanilla Stout, Belgian style ale, and the Bohemian style Pilsener, and you have a flavor adventure, all ready to go. The Bohemian style Pilsener would be great watching football, it is a mouth watering slammer. The E.S.B. is so dead on accurate, Fuller’s would approve. The Vanilla Stout, although is modest in strength, is in fact a meal in itself. This is one of Matt Brewing’s very best samplers.
Over in Harrisburg, Pennsylvania, the people at Troegs have released their MAD ELF ALE. The Mad Elf Ale is an amber-brown coloured holiday offering. An eccentric recipe that uses cherries and honey. It is reminiscent of Belgian microbrewery celebrations, with full strength (11% abv), spicy and mysterious.
Sierra Nevada Celebration Ale 2008 is the classic hoppy offering from Chico, California. It is good to see this available in the twelve pack box. I never tire of its distinct personality.
The same can be said of Summit Brewing’s Winter Ale. This deep roasted malty ale, is very porter like, and perfect for when the weather turns cold. There is not a better time of the year to showcase a brewery’s personality.
There are so many more to get to. This is but a humble beginning.
My only prayer is thank you…

SAMUEL ADAMS WINTER CLASSICS

How quickly time moves towards the holidays. Just beginning to register the Oktoberfest/Pumpkin beers when the winter brews begin to arrive. No brighter example of this can be found than the appearance of the Samuel Adams winter collection.
Samuel Adams Cranberry Lambic is the one I am always most baffled about. Using the Belgian term lambic implies the use of open air, spontaneous fermentation, which this is not. But putting aside technical definitions, what we have here is a delicious dessert bier, that would go well with a crisp, buttered waffle. The use of maple syrup combined with cranberry juice, gives this brew a taste that is simultaneously sweet and tart.
Samuel Adams Cream Stout is a big generous recipe, with plenty of malted complexity that ends deliciously long. Well suited for colder weather, although the strength is somewhat moderate, the body is rich and full.
What needs to be said about the Boston Lager included in this sampler? It is just a gentle reminder that the Samuel Adams flagship brand is also an American classic.
No greater example of recipe refinement is the Samuel Adams Winter Lager. A spiced dunkel weizenbock, this has become a Beer Doctor favorite. An essential part of the upcoming season.
Samuel Adams Old Fezziwig Ale, their Christmas wassail, has been a favorite of mine ever since the first time I tried it, many years ago, when it came out in a 25.4 ounce bottle. In fact,  I complain about the fact that this marvelous brew is no longer a stand alone offering.
The same can be said of Samuel Adams Holiday Porter. This year’s edition is one of the finest porters I have ever tasted, and I mean that, Synebrychoff included.
Winter will soon beckon and the blessings of great brew will warm the season.
Thank you.

A Shortly Before October Surprise

Now that the season has turned, it is good to see the return of an annual fall favorite, that being Saranac Pumpkin Ale. Although there are quite a few good pumpkin ales, this brew from F.X. Matt is the wassail the world was waiting for. A rich, carefully spiced brown ale that has become a distinctive, welcoming seasonal. In limited supply, this is worth pouncing on if sighted.
The folks over in Rochester, New York, who helped Matt Brewing after their fire last May, also have a very good seasonal gift. Dundee’s Oktoberfest is a delicious, modestly priced marzen style lager that is close to perfect for this time of year.
Lastly, (and this post is intended to be brief) I would like to mention a very happy surprise, and that is Budweiser American Ale. Everybody, including yours truly, has railed against much of Anheuser-Busch’s products. Oddly, it was more than a decade ago that A-B planned to make a Budweiser Ale, but shelved it, just before going into production, for fear, it was said at that time, of diluting the Budweiser brand.
Well after Bud Light Lime and the many fruit infused Michelob versions, making an all malt, dry hopped ale, seems quite in order. What was absolutely shocking, given Bud’s propensity to be middle of the road, that this is an ale of real character. Beer elitists will scoff at this giant corporation’s creation, but as The Beer Doctor, it is my job to report my honest reaction. This is quite good indeed.
I hope this brew becomes popular and successful. So instead of just taking up more shelf space with dubious, demographic invented creations, we will have one more good choice, of beer that is worth drinking.
“Blessings of your heart, you brew good ale.”
William Shakespeare
My only prayer is Thank You.