The Strange Train: Transition
09 Feb 2011 Leave a Comment
in beer, Bells, bitches brew, genesee brewery, hopslam, Keller's IGA, miles davis, Uncategorized
The new year has no-so-gently reminded that winter has taken a bite and appears to not want to let go. Somewhat unusual in Southwestern Ohio, where mild winter days are usually common, but such is not the case (so far) this year.
Blame it on the end of The Long Count of the Mayan Calendar (1year, 10 months, and days), or maybe it is just Cincinnati (where sometimes the clocks seem to run backwards) but change is certainly happening and it is both abrupt and baffling. What I mean is that a local grocery store, Keller’s IGA in Clifton, closed its doors in early January, due to (I am told) a failure to pay state sales taxes. With its demise, the neighborhood residents are deprived of a source for groceries, but worse for myself, this brings to an end the store with the finest beer selection in the city.
How many beers had I purchased and sampled from Keller’s? That would have to be in the hundreds. An incredibly large assortment, both domestic and foreign, they were often ahead of the curve. Bell’s Hopslam, which so many are so gaga about now, appeared there seasons ago, when it was still a ridiculously high priced six-pack, only a couple of dollars cheaper.
Thanks to Keller’s I was able to experience Dogfish Head Miles Davis Bitches Brew without having to travel to Fairfield, Ohio’s Jungle Jim’s. From Saranac to local Mt. Carmel and Rivertown, Keller’s IGA had an entire range of beers to accommodate nearly any taste.
What makes this even sadder is when I think of the good friendly people who worked there who have lost employment. Being known as the beer doctor, there was often humor and passionate discovery when I visited the store. Now, all of that is gone.
The train of transition requires adjustment. Keeping a good supply of beer on hand is not a problem. My local store, a convenience gas station two blocks from my house, orders up whatever I request. Because of this, the annual return of Genesee Bock continues. But it is not the same as visiting that brewery smorgasbord once known as Keller’s IGA. Buying beer there wasn’t really about shopping, but much
more about exploring possibilities.
A toast to the little store that could!
The Beer Doctor
The Long March Of Marzen
24 Aug 2010 Leave a Comment
in beer, Bells, Christian Moerlein, Dundee beers, Leinenkugel's, matt brewing, Molson Coors, Octoberfest, samuel adams, Uncategorized
Actually, despite the melodrama of this title, it would be better to call this the long leisurely stroll down Oktoberfest lane. Of course in most cases, Oktoberfest beer refers to Marzen, that often amber coloured, malty brew that appears each fall, not only in Munich, Germany, but nearly everywhere else, since numerous breweries create their own versions of the style.
When I was younger and more foolish, I use to think What is the best Oktoberfest beer? But after many years I discovered such judgmental analysis is a waste of time, because Oktoberfest, in all of its variations, is a beer of love kind of thing.
Left Hand Brewing Oktoberfest was one of the earliest to appear this year. A smooth malty traditional that is a bit stronger than usual (6.6%abv), but completely focused.
Dundee Oktoberfest is Rochester, New York’s take, a densely malted recipe that puts emphasis on the orange-citrus notes and reminding me that malt is good for the soul.
Point Oktoberfest from Wisconsin, has an approach a bit brighter, but still very traditional. Another nudge to the fact that beer is food to be enjoyed with other food.
Heavy Seas Marzen from Clipper City Brewing in Baltimore, is a year-round available tribute to the style, once called “MazHon” that is malty smooth with a long gentle finish.
Leinenkugel Oktoberfest, from the craft beer division of Molson Coors, is a deliciously doughy version, expertly balanced with four specialty hops. Munich, Pale and Caramel malts give this recipe finesse.
Bells Octoberfest is lighter coloured (almost pale lager) version of the Fall classic. A pleasant reminder that not all the beer featured in Munich is deep amber in colour. This reminds me of the Lowenbrau recipe. A 5.5% quaff-able to be sure. Good from start to finish.
Saranac Oktoberfest is a tribute to German heritage. Like much of what is made at Matt Brewing, this beer is expertly done, achieving a marvelous balance between malts and hops.
Samuel Adams Octoberfest is the one most Americans will notice, due to its national visibility. And what a recipe it is! Over many years this recipe has been refined, so that it achieves sophisticated balance, which is a remarkable achievement considering the scale of production.
Moerlein Fifth & Vine Oktoberfest is a great Cincinnati take on Marzen, although it is not (as yet) produced here. A copper coloured beauty that is simply a pleasure to consume.
There are so many more, and as this season unfolds I will attempt to try as many as possible.
Hey, it is a job, but somebody has to do it.
Thank You.
The Beer Doctor



