First Things First, Second Things Second

Much has happened since neglecting my favorite web site, due to crazy local events. I refuse to bore you with those details, so let me get to the subject at hand: Beer!
I am sure by now almost everybody has tasted their fall marzen, or what is commonly called Oktoberfest. I usually sample as many of these as possible, but this year I slacked off a bit, but still had time to try the Kostritzer version from the black bier people in Germany. A change of pace from the caramel malt laden versions around, like Samuel Adams Octoberfest.
But the caramel malt profile has become synonymous with autumn beers in the United States. As the weather turns cooler the body has a need for more malts, which makes super hop productions seem out of season for the moment.
Since it is autumn and we are rapidly moving towards Halloween, I do want to mention one of my favorite seasonal productions, that being Saranac Pumpkin Ale.
Many compare this beer to pumpkin pie, although I do not eat pumpkin pie as a rule. No, what I like about this pumpkin ale is the recipe. I prefer it over Brooklyn Brewery’s Post Road, which Matt Brewing does the contract brewing for.
About a month ago I attended a distributor trade show where Rochester, New York brewer Dundee had samples of their Oktoberfest. A very good take on the style, that is not as widely distributed as it should.
I also got to sample Sierra-Nevada’s Chico Estate. A complete “in-house” brew, using hops grown by the brewery. It was quite good, but time limitations prevented the kind of serious, sit down contemplation this smooth ale demanded.
At the very same show (hell, it might as well been called a party) the Schlitz Gusto folks were in full promotional mode. Schlitz Gusto is the trade book name for the revived early 1960’s formula of Schlitz, before the marketing geniuses came up with the idea of tweaking the recipe, to supposedly produce more, while using less ingredients. That lead to the ultimate disaster where Schlitz, the number one beer in America since World War II, lost its market dominance to Budweiser, and never gained it back. As a kid, I heard beer drinking adults refer to Schlitz as “Shits” when the reformulated suds turned people away in droves.
But corporate amnesia was in full play this evening. Like Microsoft wanting you to buy 7 and forget all about something once known as Vista, the Schlitz Gusto had not only tied in to their daddy or granddaddy’s beer, with its Schlitz classic logo, they even had buttons promoting it as the beer of choice for the 1969 Woodstock music festival.
I also had to marvel at the riffs being used by the sales representative. Not only was he promoting Schlitz with quite a bit of gusto, he also had on hand their strong (8.5%) malt liquor, which he made a distinction that it was not malt liquor (which is in fact, a rather ambiguous term) but a high gravity lager.
Which was also in full play at this trade show, the distinction between craft, regional retro and corporate has becomes pretty much of a blur. I know the so-called craft brewers want to seperate themselves from the rest of the brewing industry, but is that actually possible, or is it by now, just another marketing ploy? I mean after trying Samuel Adams Coastal Wheat, how is it different than other big brewer’s wheat productions? From Coors’ Blue Moon to Bud Light Golden Wheat?
As I stated in a previous post, the recipe is the final deciding factor. Consolidation of brewing interests can reek havoc on a beloved brew. Take what A-B Inbev as done to the venerable Bass Ale. Corporate concerns have forgotten all about the character of this famous ale, that once upon a time, in Burton-On-Trent England, was brewed with gypsum mineral rich water that provided a somewhat chalky but delicious finish. None of that is present in the concoction now sold as Bass.
Luckily, some recipes have not been changed, or in rare cases, actually improved. Two of the early winter arrivals are outstanding: Avery’s Old Jubilation Ale and Flying Dog’s K-9. Both of these examples show that if you are going to fork out some serious money for a six pack of beer, it had better be worth it. In the case of these two, I would say it is.
As always my only prayer is thank you.

KEEP ON BOCKING IN THE USA

With Spring comes bock, and with the arrival of Genesee Bock 12 packs in cans, it seems to harken back to a simpler time. Which seems to be effecting regional brewers across the country, who are rediscovering archival bock recipes to revive. A good example of this is Stegmaier Brewhouse Bock, a turn of the 20th century recipe that reminds me of the estery magic possible in an all malt, traditional German style recipe. In fact, although I thoroughly enjoy Anchor Bock, Leinenkugel’s 188 Bock, and Christian Moerlein Emancipator, I think the Stegmaier takes the prize for astounding flavor not magic.
Samuel Adams Double Bock has undergone a change in marketing strategy that I can not say I approve of. It use to be, for many many years, Double Bock appeared for a short six weeks of the year in six pack or case. Now it has been revamped to be produced year round as a four pack in their Imperial Series, kicking up the alcohol strength past 9% abv, I guess to help justify spending $10 on four bottles of beer. Unfortunately, many stores who carry Sam Adams beer, are a bit gun  shy on carrying an expensive four pack. So it has actually become more difficult to find the new version, of which I still have not tried.
ASomething definately worth checking out is Shiner 100th Anniversary Commemorator, a top fermented dunkel weizen dopplebock, a style usually associated with Schneider & Sohn’s Aventinus or Erdinger’s Pikantus. Here the Spoetzl Brewery takes on the recipe Texas style, performed with flavorful audacity. Not to be missed.
There are many other examples of bock this year available, including Dundee Pale Bock and Summit Mai Bock, both fine examples of the golden coloured late spring style. Many others, due to logistical distribution factors, I will not able to sample, including Yuengling Bock, found one state to the east of me. Anyway, here’s to bock! In its myriad recipe forms. To the restorative powers of malts I say cheers! and as always my only prayer is thank you.

A Shortly Before October Surprise

Now that the season has turned, it is good to see the return of an annual fall favorite, that being Saranac Pumpkin Ale. Although there are quite a few good pumpkin ales, this brew from F.X. Matt is the wassail the world was waiting for. A rich, carefully spiced brown ale that has become a distinctive, welcoming seasonal. In limited supply, this is worth pouncing on if sighted.
The folks over in Rochester, New York, who helped Matt Brewing after their fire last May, also have a very good seasonal gift. Dundee’s Oktoberfest is a delicious, modestly priced marzen style lager that is close to perfect for this time of year.
Lastly, (and this post is intended to be brief) I would like to mention a very happy surprise, and that is Budweiser American Ale. Everybody, including yours truly, has railed against much of Anheuser-Busch’s products. Oddly, it was more than a decade ago that A-B planned to make a Budweiser Ale, but shelved it, just before going into production, for fear, it was said at that time, of diluting the Budweiser brand.
Well after Bud Light Lime and the many fruit infused Michelob versions, making an all malt, dry hopped ale, seems quite in order. What was absolutely shocking, given Bud’s propensity to be middle of the road, that this is an ale of real character. Beer elitists will scoff at this giant corporation’s creation, but as The Beer Doctor, it is my job to report my honest reaction. This is quite good indeed.
I hope this brew becomes popular and successful. So instead of just taking up more shelf space with dubious, demographic invented creations, we will have one more good choice, of beer that is worth drinking.
“Blessings of your heart, you brew good ale.”
William Shakespeare
My only prayer is Thank You.

THREE DIFFERENT CRAFT PACKS

This is a review of three different variety packs from three different wonderful brewing companies. Because of the recent purchase by InBev of Anheuser-Busch, I thought I would begin with now what is the number one American brewing company, the Boston Beer Company, also known as Samuel Adams.
SAMUEL ADAMS BREWMASTER’S VARIETY PACK
There are different manifestations of this sampler, depending upon the season, or what new brewing style Samuel Adams wishes to introduce. This one features their Irish Ale, their incredibly juicy take on the Irish red style, delicious from start to finish. The Black Lager is a German (rather than Shiner’s Czech) take on schwartzbier, smooth and balanced. The Scotch Ale here reassures seekers of fine beer that Samuel Adams is not afraid to create beers with uncompromising style. In this case, a world class example of ale with incredible malty flavor depth. The Brown Ale is their tribute to the British style which puts emphasis on toasted malts, using six specialty varieties, along with Kent Goldings and Fruggles hops. Their Honey Porter is an original take on the before stout style, with intriging flavor complexity. The brand name Boston Lager rounds out this tour. The quality consistency for their famous amber lager is one of the main reasons Sam Adams beers are held in such high regard. Their achievements in beer culture are considerable, to say the least.
SARANAC ADIRONDACK TRAIL MIX
After the fire at the brewery last May, it is always good to see Saranac beers. This version of their Trail Mix features their Brown Ale, an all American ale that is very delicious indeed. In fact, I would have to rate this as one of the better beers found in the United States. The Black Forrest is Matt Brewing’s take on Bavarian black beer. Their expert knowledge of different brewing styles is quite evident here, very flavorful and wonderfully balanced. The inviting Pale Ale is an authentic take on the British style, producing a fruity palate that is surprizingly sophisticated. The India Pale Ale is a good choice for those seeking a hoppy ale that is not over the top. The Black & Tan, a long time member of the Trail Mix, combines pleasantly, German-style lager with Irish-style stout. The flagship Adirondack Lager, completes the variety, the tasty amber lager first brewed in the beginning of the Saranac brand.
DUNDEE CRAFT PACK
From Utica, New York to Rochester, you’ll find the Highfalls Brewing Company, brewers of the great Genesee bock, who have revamped their J.W.Dundee line of beers to simply Dundee. Hats off to High Falls for helping F.X. Matt after the fire. It should also be noted that Highfalls attempts to raise awareness on the decline of the honey bee, an insect whose product is vitally important to their famous flagship brand Honey Brown Lager, should be applauded.
The Dundee craft pack features a decidedly non-German take on hefeweizen, their Wheat Beer forgoes the banana-clove notes from the yeast, for a straight ahead thirst quenching approach. Their India Pale Ale lacks some malt support. But this can not be said of the Porter, a bona-fide American classic. The kind of beer I would like to have on hand, during the winter holidays. Late spring would certainly seem brighter with their Pale Bock Lager, an authentic recipe take on German Mai Bock, golden and strong, with nectar like qualities. The Dundee Pale Ale is in the middle of the American ale range, combining American hops and malts and a new world, zesty yeast. The original Honey Brown completes this pack. The honey flavored pilsner has been brewed enough times at Highfalls to completely master the recipe.
All three of these variety packs are available in 12 pack boxes. Six times two means more good beer for me and you. Cheers!