First Things First, Second Things Second

Much has happened since neglecting my favorite web site, due to crazy local events. I refuse to bore you with those details, so let me get to the subject at hand: Beer!
I am sure by now almost everybody has tasted their fall marzen, or what is commonly called Oktoberfest. I usually sample as many of these as possible, but this year I slacked off a bit, but still had time to try the Kostritzer version from the black bier people in Germany. A change of pace from the caramel malt laden versions around, like Samuel Adams Octoberfest.
But the caramel malt profile has become synonymous with autumn beers in the United States. As the weather turns cooler the body has a need for more malts, which makes super hop productions seem out of season for the moment.
Since it is autumn and we are rapidly moving towards Halloween, I do want to mention one of my favorite seasonal productions, that being Saranac Pumpkin Ale.
Many compare this beer to pumpkin pie, although I do not eat pumpkin pie as a rule. No, what I like about this pumpkin ale is the recipe. I prefer it over Brooklyn Brewery’s Post Road, which Matt Brewing does the contract brewing for.
About a month ago I attended a distributor trade show where Rochester, New York brewer Dundee had samples of their Oktoberfest. A very good take on the style, that is not as widely distributed as it should.
I also got to sample Sierra-Nevada’s Chico Estate. A complete “in-house” brew, using hops grown by the brewery. It was quite good, but time limitations prevented the kind of serious, sit down contemplation this smooth ale demanded.
At the very same show (hell, it might as well been called a party) the Schlitz Gusto folks were in full promotional mode. Schlitz Gusto is the trade book name for the revived early 1960’s formula of Schlitz, before the marketing geniuses came up with the idea of tweaking the recipe, to supposedly produce more, while using less ingredients. That lead to the ultimate disaster where Schlitz, the number one beer in America since World War II, lost its market dominance to Budweiser, and never gained it back. As a kid, I heard beer drinking adults refer to Schlitz as “Shits” when the reformulated suds turned people away in droves.
But corporate amnesia was in full play this evening. Like Microsoft wanting you to buy 7 and forget all about something once known as Vista, the Schlitz Gusto had not only tied in to their daddy or granddaddy’s beer, with its Schlitz classic logo, they even had buttons promoting it as the beer of choice for the 1969 Woodstock music festival.
I also had to marvel at the riffs being used by the sales representative. Not only was he promoting Schlitz with quite a bit of gusto, he also had on hand their strong (8.5%) malt liquor, which he made a distinction that it was not malt liquor (which is in fact, a rather ambiguous term) but a high gravity lager.
Which was also in full play at this trade show, the distinction between craft, regional retro and corporate has becomes pretty much of a blur. I know the so-called craft brewers want to seperate themselves from the rest of the brewing industry, but is that actually possible, or is it by now, just another marketing ploy? I mean after trying Samuel Adams Coastal Wheat, how is it different than other big brewer’s wheat productions? From Coors’ Blue Moon to Bud Light Golden Wheat?
As I stated in a previous post, the recipe is the final deciding factor. Consolidation of brewing interests can reek havoc on a beloved brew. Take what A-B Inbev as done to the venerable Bass Ale. Corporate concerns have forgotten all about the character of this famous ale, that once upon a time, in Burton-On-Trent England, was brewed with gypsum mineral rich water that provided a somewhat chalky but delicious finish. None of that is present in the concoction now sold as Bass.
Luckily, some recipes have not been changed, or in rare cases, actually improved. Two of the early winter arrivals are outstanding: Avery’s Old Jubilation Ale and Flying Dog’s K-9. Both of these examples show that if you are going to fork out some serious money for a six pack of beer, it had better be worth it. In the case of these two, I would say it is.
As always my only prayer is thank you.

DUST BOWL BEER

Okay, I do not want this to be a downer, but reality reveals the economy has come up short and money continues to dry up and blow away. Not good for the quality beer drinker, who see their favorite brands being yanked up up a dollar or more, and this being a dusty summer, what can a thirsty seeker do? Well, first there is the inexpensive beers: mostly adjunct grain lagers, sometimes with added ferment-ables, or ice brewed, for a bit more of a kick. Then there are those renowned retrospective classics: Pabst Blue Ribbon, Burger Classic, Old Milwaukee, etc… forget the aesthetics of glass bottles, the aluminum can will have to do. Despite the disparaging of beer in a can, the Ball corporation produces what is undoubtedly one the most efficient packages in the world, with a water based coating that completely eliminates the possibility of any metallic flavor, since the beer never actually touches the aluminium.
Beer is somewhat expensive in the state of Ohio. For economic classification, I’ll start with beer that costs 50 cents for twelve ounces. This of course includes those 24 ounce dollar cans, which of late includes Icehouse, Labatt Blue and Labatt Ice. After that there is the one dollar for twelve ounces tier, which includes $2 “oil cans” of Foster’s, the one time Aussie beer now brewed in Georgia and Texas. Also a 24 ounce bottle of Samuel Adams Boston Lager, which is the least expensive of their entire line.
Budweiser American Ale fits into this group, a twenty two ounce bottle for $1.79.
The first part of this summer has been economically tough, from county property taxes to tires for the family car. There other personal family catastrophes that I will not bore you with. Suffice to say that when I dropped in at my local beer store a few weeks back, the owner pointed to the recently acquired Anchor Summer Beer, which I replied, after noticing the $10 price tag, “No, I can’t do that, that is way above my pay grade.”
Which brings up a recent incident with Pyramid Breweries Curve Ball, a one time Kolsch-style summer ale that now sports new urban graphic packaging. But the beer itself incredibly, was absolutely awful. The package claims the beer is “a deceptively delicious diversion”… think again sports fans. The other sting to this was that Curve Ball retails at $9.57, tax included. Nothing bites like losing money on a very lame beer.

Imagine The Surprize

Fifteen years ago when the craft brew world was starting to go into orbit, few at the time would have imagined that the orbit is permanent, or L5 as they say. Recently sampling  Great Lakes Grassroots Ale, I was struck by the fact a brewery located in Cleveland, Ohio could produce an herbal farmhouse style of ale, found in Belgian and French farms, and somewhat rare, even in their countries of origin. Mind you, it is not my favorite beer, but the Belgian yeast strain, combined with the herbs, keep this in authentic context. On the bottle’s label, it is referred to as a mild ale, which when you see that it is 6.2% abv, they are using the term mild in the Belgian sense of the word. In British vocabulary this ale would be deemed strong.
But there is certainly something to be said about sitting in the backyard, on one of the warmest days so far this year, amidst abundant foliage and sunlight, and pouring this beautiful golden ale into what could be rightfully called a performance ale glass,  which exhibits this beer in all its saison glory.

Brewers in the United States are very interested in all different styles of beer. Take Andygator from The Abita Brewing Company in Louisiana. A big southern take on the traditional German Mai bock. Packaged into a 22oz bottle (a bomber as the beer crowd calls it) this 8% golden boy, is most definitely a bottle for two. If you open this while alone, well its time to get happy and responisble ( by not performing any tasks that require responsibility). Time to sit back and enjoy the malty golden nectar.
Which brings me to a point I would like to make. As The Beer Doctor, I was schooled in tasting by Beer Hound James D. Robertson, who taught me as a taster, its my job to meet any beer’s recipe halfway. In other words, if I am sampling a beer brewed with corn grits, say Straub or Pabst for example, I am not going to compare it with an all malt recipe. To say that beers made with adjunct grains are inferior is to deny the history of brewing (especially in the United States) that brought them about. Whether it is macrobrews or craft brewed, these marketing terms are incredibly overrated, because in truth, it is the recipe that counts, and how it is put into production. Of course branding has something to say, when it comes to satisfying the ticklish consumer palate. That is why Heineken Lager is sold in green bottles. Why Corona is sold as some fantasy beach vacation, rather than the dull migrant cooler that it actually is. Stella Artois is another marketing coup, taking a rather common table lager from Belgium, and making it “Reassuringly Expensive” as it was touted in England up until a couple of years ago.
The price of beer is often used as a way to determine the quality of the beer. After many years in the trenches, so to speak, I can assure the dear reader that this is not so. But people believe what they want to believe, so I am not at all surprised  when I observe someone forking out serious dough, for a six pack of something I would consider not worth buying at half the prize. Such is essential human freedom, and bless us all for deciding what each of us  wants to drink.
The recipe is the thing that will catch the conscience of The Beer Doctor. Whether it is new world or old world or downright acrchaic (such as brew lagered for months in stone caves). If it tastes good or interesting, it is going to be counted. Cheers!

KEEP ON BOCKING IN THE USA

With Spring comes bock, and with the arrival of Genesee Bock 12 packs in cans, it seems to harken back to a simpler time. Which seems to be effecting regional brewers across the country, who are rediscovering archival bock recipes to revive. A good example of this is Stegmaier Brewhouse Bock, a turn of the 20th century recipe that reminds me of the estery magic possible in an all malt, traditional German style recipe. In fact, although I thoroughly enjoy Anchor Bock, Leinenkugel’s 188 Bock, and Christian Moerlein Emancipator, I think the Stegmaier takes the prize for astounding flavor not magic.
Samuel Adams Double Bock has undergone a change in marketing strategy that I can not say I approve of. It use to be, for many many years, Double Bock appeared for a short six weeks of the year in six pack or case. Now it has been revamped to be produced year round as a four pack in their Imperial Series, kicking up the alcohol strength past 9% abv, I guess to help justify spending $10 on four bottles of beer. Unfortunately, many stores who carry Sam Adams beer, are a bit gun  shy on carrying an expensive four pack. So it has actually become more difficult to find the new version, of which I still have not tried.
ASomething definately worth checking out is Shiner 100th Anniversary Commemorator, a top fermented dunkel weizen dopplebock, a style usually associated with Schneider & Sohn’s Aventinus or Erdinger’s Pikantus. Here the Spoetzl Brewery takes on the recipe Texas style, performed with flavorful audacity. Not to be missed.
There are many other examples of bock this year available, including Dundee Pale Bock and Summit Mai Bock, both fine examples of the golden coloured late spring style. Many others, due to logistical distribution factors, I will not able to sample, including Yuengling Bock, found one state to the east of me. Anyway, here’s to bock! In its myriad recipe forms. To the restorative powers of malts I say cheers! and as always my only prayer is thank you.

NEW BEERS IN THE NEW YEAR

2009 is proving to be an interesting year.  The arrival of Samuel Adams Blackberry Witbier is a very pleasant addition indeed. Too many fruit flavored beers miss the mark, but that is not the case with this recipe. A thirst quenching, delicious beer that, at 5.5% abv, is substantial enough to be enjoyed anytime of the year. A welcome addition to the Sam Adams permanent portfolio.
Another addition to yearly production is Sierra Nevada Torpedo IPA Ale. An orange-copper colored pour that is lively, with a surprisingly subtle, hops rich nose. “Torpedo” refers to the “hop torpedo” method created by Sierra Nevada, to uniquely dry hop this ale, which is only logical, from the brewery known for its obsessive hops personality. An uncompromising American IPA, well designed for those who love this brewing style, where intense hop floral resins combine with malts to create a complex, citrus-layered palate, that finishes as long as the day therein.
The same can be said for their annual barleywine style, Sierra Nevada Bigfoot Ale 2009, where the hug malt presentation does not escape Sierra Nevada’s hops assertion. This was an “extreme beer” long before anyone had coined the term. A welcome selection for post-holiday, dead-of-winter. A seriously deep brew with complex bitterness, for those who can sip and enjoy, a truly heavy beer.
A very good seasonal now available is Pandora’s Bock from Breckenridge Brewery. A lively dark copper pour, with a rich malty palate, offset somewhat by hops, making it rather doughy in the finish. Four different malts are used, along with a traditional Bavarian lager yeast, and Strisselspalt and Chinook hops, combine well to perform their magic. A tasty, beautiful presentation.
Matt Brewing has released their St. Patrick’s Day offering, with their Saranac Irish Red Ale. A festive, pleasurable event in the Irish amber style. Nothing is out of place here. A tasty drinkable beer, from start to finish. Have a case or two of this, for a crowd.
In the state of Ohio, in February, six packs of beers from Mendociono Brewing Company are on sale at $6.99 (+). A very good offering is their White Hawk Original IPA, with its subtle (as opposed to overwhelming) aromatic nose. Like nearly all American versions of India Pale Ale, this is aggressively hopped to say the least.
Hoppy beers have become quite a rage amongst beer seekers lately, and there are plenty of examples to choose from. White Hawk is Mendocino’s year round offering, and at 7% abv, it is a couple of notches in strength below the hops blow-out, extreme, “Imperial” versions. But there is plenty of flavor here. There is more of an apricot note in the citrus palate, fairly mild and finishes long.
Another interesting offering is Mendocino’s Black Eye Ale, a rich dark pour with a reddish undertone. This “black and tan” combines Black Hawk Stout with their Eye Of The Hawk Red Ale, producing a smooth malty, 6.5% abv, presentation. Here hops and malts blissfully co-exist. There are many flavor notes here, but why get ponderous? This top fermented blend is designed for drinkability (in a 22oz bottle at that), which it most certainly is, with a silky smooth finish.
Bock beers keep arriving this time of year. This season Jacob Leinenkugel Brewery decided to revive their brewery’s first 19th century recipe. 1888 Bock is dark amber in color, and a gentle malts showcase, serving as a reminder that bock beer  has been a part of the American beer vocabulary for a very long time. The use of pale and dark malts keeps this tasty and festive.
Last but not least, Anchor Brewing Company’s Anchor Bock, is a very fine example of American bock. A luxurious, deep brown pour, that combines barley and wheat malts to produce an outstanding beer, with many flavorful notes. This is the first time I have sampled this beer, and the fact that this was a fresh sample, made this a very glorious experience.
Cheers!

HAZY HOLIDAY DEFINITIONS

The Holiday/Winter beer investigations continue. I am going to have to do some travel to expand the portfolio of bottled offerings. Like all true lovers of this ancient beverage, we know, WE JUST SIMPLY KNOW, that there is no such thing as too much beer!
Now some misunderstood souls will see this as an endorsement for drinking excess, Not so! There are beers (Brooklyn’s Black Chocolate Stout for example) so rich and full that one is certainly enough. No, what I mean is, in the long scheme of things, like a beer blogger in Alaska once noted, you can be stocked full with all kinds of beer, but there will always be something you would like to have on hand, to make an occasion or holiday complete. It is the seeking where a lot of the love comes in.
Recently I went to beeradvocate.com to read what others thought of this year’s “Our Special Ale” from the Anchor Brewing Company. It was there I noticed that under category, it was listed as “winter warmer”. Winter Warmer? When did that become a recipe definition?
Mind you, I am old school. I was once at a trade show talking to sales reps from the Boston Beer Company, who happily discovered I knew more about the history of Samuel Adams Winter Lager than they did, simply because I was drinking it before they were legally old enough to imbibe. But the winter warmer definition is disturbing to me, because Winter/Holiday beers have always been my favorite subject. Winter warmer is a vague definition, like the equally stupid “session beer” which can best be described as: Well I see you guys are going to pound a few.
Winter/Holiday beers have many descriptions. Wassail for example, is ale with spices, Anchor’s 34th edition is a prime example. Winter Ale or Old English Ale, is a non-spiced ale that puts great emphasis on malts, and the interplay between malts and hops, that change definition somewhat, through the passage of time, when hops, which were once in the foreground, fade into the malty background. A once prime example of this was King & Barnes in England. Samuel Smith’s Winter Welcome is another. In the United States, Goose Island, Avery, Great Divide, all pay tribute to this, with big malty productions.
A more recent, but much beloved development is the West Coast idea of making India Pale Ale as a holiday offering. The most famous example of this is Sierra Nevada’s Celebration Ale. Mendocino Brewing does this also. So does Rogue Brewing, with their Santa’s Private Reserve Ale.
Another hoppy take is Holiday Amber, where hops are combined with a more malty approach, Magic Hat’s Roxy Rolles, is a fine example.
Bottom fermented beers, or what is known in the U.S. as lager, have their own storied history in the making of holiday beer. Christmas Bock, a tradition that dates back to at least 1543, with the world famous Wurzburger Holiday Bier. Penn Brewing continues this tradition with their St. Nikolaus Bock, along with other brewpubs and homebrewers. I have often been asked, is Sam Adams Winter Lager a wassail? Not exactly. It is a spiced, dunkelweizen bock. Old Fezziwig Ale is Samuel Adams wassail.
The term Festive Ale, is sometimes used, which often refers to strong barleywine style ales. In the United States, Stone Brewing’s Double Bastard Ale, is a prime example.
The Belgians have their own unique contribution to the holiday portfolio. Affligem’s Noel, Scaldis Noel, Stille Nocht, Delerium Noel are some examples. These are ales that sometimes use fruit, spices and honey. All are flavor rich and strong.
Add to all of this, ales that are aged in oak, and it becomes quite obvious that the  term “winter warmer”, simply will not do, when describing the holiday beer universe.
As always, thank you.

EXTENDED HOLIDAYS

There are many different approaches to holiday beer. There is the English style old winter ale, the hoppy IPA style, the wassail style of ale, not to be confused with spiced versions of lager, such as Samuel Adams Winter Lager, a spiced dunkelweizen bock. Add to that the many variations of porter, imperial stouts which utilize cocoa and such, and you have a plethora of products to choose from.
To start off, I would like to cover some annual classics… given that distinction after many years of sampling. Snow Cap Ale from Pyramid Breweries comes to mind, its dark amber color, with its unmistakable malty nose. I could certainly make this one out in a blind taste test. The rich malty character made even more distinctive by the spicy interplay with the hops. Unmistakable.
Three Holiday offerings from breweries in Colorado, reveal how great United States brewing has become. Breckenridge Christmas Ale has always been good, but over the years this recipe has evolved to the point of greatness. A rich semi-dry palate from an invigorating malt presentation, that is complex but without being ponderous. A very festive holiday ale indeed.
Great Divide Brewing’s Hibernation Ale is a rich brown pour with a coppery undertone. A glorious take on strong winter ale, with plenty of malted strength and flavor complexity to make this a go-to choice on a cold winter night.
The same can be said of Avery’s Old Jubilation Ale, another big time malt creation, full of chocolate to mocha to vanilla notes. Another Colorado brew of marvelous depth. These beers seem to beg the question: do you want to slam some swill? or do you to drink an actual beer?
When it comes to holiday spiced ale in the United States, the inimitable champion is Anchor Brewing’s “Our Special Ale”, the 34th edition of their Christmas wassail, with its pine-spruce essence reappearing every year in the aroma. Staying within the palate parameters of this much discussed ale, that changes, or more accurately, adds variations to the recipe, year after year, this version in no way disappoints. A very festive, flavorful, easy to drink Christmas ale. I would forget about storing this for later, this beer has no need need to improve with time. There is plenty of complexity to experience while enjoying this fresh.
By contrast, Harpoon’s Winter Warmer is a straight forward, rather rough recipe, which simply puts emphasis on cinnamon and nutmeg.
Blue Moon’s Full Moon Winter Ale makes Belgian claims by its use of dark candy sugar, but it is not Belgian style ale at all. Instead, there is a full body, malty ale of moderate strength, that is hearty, smooth, and approachable.
One holiday creation, it is said will develop over five years, and that is Goose Island Christmas Ale, the mahogany colored pour from the Chicago beer company. Having sampled “vintage” versions, the ale will reveal its British based lineage, but this only deprives you of the wonderful flavor of a fresh bottle. With its chocolate-citrus flavor notes. This finishes with an orange-chocolate note. Fantastic. Not to be missed.
Probably one of the greatest recipes in production at present is Brooklyn Brewery’s Brooklyn Winter Ale, an almost unbelievable tribute to the Scottish Maris Otter malts. Of all the wonderful beers of this season, I hold this in the highest regard. Cheers!

THE SHOP IS OPEN

First off, it has been awhile since I have written anything on this, my favorite beloved web site. Recent distractions, such as the high cost of living due to the fossil fuel energy inflation, have taken their toll. Nevertheless, many things have happened.
The Fire At The F.X. Matt Brewery. Thursday night, a fire broke out at the brewery located in Utica, New York. I learned of this through e-mail from the company itself. This is a sad, though not dire, situation. I soon learned that their production facility was damaged, but not the brewed beer! I am going to purchase Saranac beer through the summer (at least) as tribute to the fine, decent business that the Matt Brewery is. I remind myself that not only do they produce their own great line of beers, but are also the contract brewers for the Brooklyn Brewery. Through their contractual work, many have enjoyed their handiwork, without even knowing their name. Blessings of the heart, they brew good beer.
What A Wonderful Beer. I am speaking of that conspiracy of goodness that has returned: Genesee Bock Beer. The arrival of this inexpensive, great tasting brew is just what the doctor ordered in these monetary challenging times. I have read comments from beer snobs who just could not understand why they enjoyed an affordable beer in a can. The gentle graphics of a young goat with flowers, green and yellow, should tell you that this is no ordinary beer. For lack of a better word, I call it: magic.
Sierra Nevada Southern Hemisphere Harvest Ale. From Chico, California comes this ale that is the epitome of the Sierra Nevada Brewery’s personality. Taking up where their fall classic, Harvest Ale, stops. Southern Hemisphere uses the fresh hops being harvested in New Zealand, which in turn, are quickly shipped from down under to California. Although expensive at five dollars per 24 ounce bottle, it is most definately worth the bother. Unlike the trend towards “extreme beers” , the empahsis here is on the tremendous flavors of the recipe. For those familar with Sierra Nevada, I will put it this way: sipping this ale, I had an almost Proustian moments of remembrance of Celebration Ales from the past. Easily one of the very best brews available in the United States.
Harpoon 100 Barrel Series: Old Rusty’s Red Rye Ale. From Boston, Massachusetts comes this amber colored pour with a very inviting, spicy nose. There is a drop dead iron-like palate. This is a rye ale that is exquisite in every degree. Truly something to behold. An incredible rye bread spicy finish, with a 6.5% abv, that says yes, it is all true. This is an iconoclast recipe for the ages. Pure example of what the best craft brewers strive for, challenging and deliciously unique.
Moylan’s Hopsickle Imperial Ale. From Novato, California, this bright orange-gold pour is luxuriously deep, even in a mug with handle. The intense citrus nose of foam makes this a kind of sherbet. The extended length of time it takes to settle, acts as a natural preventative from consuming too quickly, and at a too cold temperature.
As to the palate? This is indeed for the lupulin warriors. A combination of Chinook, Ahtanum, Columbus, Sincoe, and Cascade hops make this a tart bittersweet  experience, with a long, as in the day is long, finish. In what in the United States are called “extreme beers”, this “triple hoppy” Imperial IPA  would be an honored guest. A very strong presentation, equally matched in strength (9.2% abv). At one time, this would be considered adventurous, but after so many stabs by brewers at extreme beers, this might be considered par for the course.
So that is all for now. I will try not to be a stranger. My prayer is, as always, Thank You.

WINTER MOON ALE

Full Moon Winter Ale, Blue Moon Brewing Co., Coors-Molson, Toronto, Canada
Although the term abbey ale, used to describe this beer is a bit of a stretch; as a winter seasonal, this is far superior to the hazelnut Blue Moon winter of last year. This brew has a gentle doughy palate with a relaxed malty profile. The addition of dark candy sugar (hence the use of the term abbey) gives the ale a flavorful extended finish. Very nicely done.
THE BEER DOCTOR

TRYING NEWLY FOUND BEERS

As The Beer Doctor, I am always sampling new brews, time permitting. I also sample the annual return of seasonals, such as autumn, oktoberfest, holiday and spring bock.
This leads to other discoveries. For example, Blue Moon Brewing Company, the craft-style subsidiary of Coors-Molson, has released their winter ale for this year. But it is
not the hazelnut recipe of last year. It is said to be an abbey-style ale brewed with dark candy sugar. What does it taste like? I do not know yet. I just didn’t have the time.
THE BEER DOCTOR