Goodbye To All Of What

America has a tradition of running things into the ground. Anybody remember Jim Fixx? The joy of running guru headed the jogging craze until he fell over dead one day working out. Then enthusiasts started to consider walking instead.
Strangely this perception came to mind when I perused the latest batch of hop bombs, hatching out of the sprawling American brewing industry. As a beer writer, some would rightfully say ancient beer writer, I find it difficult to write about these beers. Flavourful? Yes. Often in a sledge hammer sort of way. But imaginative? Not really, in fact after I became acquainted with the citrus- bitter profile (there are so many of them) it becomes downright boring, with the buzz of high alcohol in the case of Imperial and Double IPA, off-setting any other considerations.
This is where a kind of Gresham’s Law of brewing has taken place. Just follow the money. How else can you explain all the IPA varieties being produced by Boston Beer Company’s Samuel Adams? Sampling their Rebel Rouser I realized the hop-forward juggernaut is unstoppable. Even the venerable Matt Brewing Company has succumbed to this criteria. Why? Because that is where the money is. Ask Yuengling or Leinenkugel’s about their India Pale Lagers.
So it is pointless to seek out and provide coverage for those expensive grapefruit-citrus-bitter concoctions rolling out of America’s breweries nearly everyday. Thankfully there are still malt forward beers being produced, but they have become more difficult to find. Take Bell’s Consecrator Dopplebockbockbell Easily one of the best American dopplebocks available. An expertly used old world yeast lets this malty spring tribute speak for itself.
Here in Cincinnati, the pride of its Germanic roots shines in Christian Moerlein Emancipator Dopplebockmoerlein_emancipator
An easy drinking celebration to the end of Prohibition, this modestly strong (6.9%) beer is a beautiful reminder that the spring bock tradition is still alive and well. Bock your house tonight.
But things like bock, dopplebock, brown ale, black bier, milk stout, are no longer in vogue. Bitter citrus tropical have become the vocabulary of the craft beer wunderkinds. Am I crying in my beer? Yes I am. So many recipes are coarse and shallow. Sadly, so many will purchase this outlook (session IPA anyone?) and will never know what truly great beer actually tastes like. So much for all this hoppy mediocrity.

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